Measure up from that mark to the top bead and down from the mark to the sill. The strips on the upper part of the bead should face out. Trim the top end of the bead square; trim the bottom end to match the angle of the sill. Repeat for the bead on the opposite jamb. The fit should be tight enough to hold them in place. Reinstall the sash, stops, and sash lock. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.
By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. How to Seal Old Windows. By Josh Garskof. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard. When combined with a good storm window, this system is as effective as a new insulated unit at stopping air infiltration. Anatomy of Double-Hung Windows Leigh Wells Old-fashioned double-hung windows are so called because they have two sash, each suspended from a pair of cords or chains with weights on one end. As it can get pretty chilly in the Bay Area during the colder months, SF Gate offer some weatherproofing tips for old windows.
Weatherproofing can not only help you warm your home by restricting unwanted drafts but also help you save energy and reduce overall cost in utility bill and home improvements. Steps To Weatherproofing Old Windows. The old-fashioned flanged weatherstrip that forms an integral seal with the sash might just be the best ever invented.
It was used on better quality homes from about until , and is commonly found in perfect working condition after a half century or longer of service. Although made in both zinc and bronze, the bronze version is substantially more expensive and probably more prone to damage if removed and reinstalled. You order flanged weatherstrip from the manufacturer cut-to-size; therefore, all measurements should be precise and at hand when making the order.
Your first step in installing flanged weatherstrips requires a router to cut a groove into three sides two stiles and the bottom rail of your sash to accept the weatherstrip flange. On the lower sash, the flange groove is located near the exterior edge of the sash. By placing the strip backwards on the sash, locate the center of where the groove should be cut and mark it. Some people also make this groove with a table saw, but I do not recommend it. After you have routed the sash, insert your strip to make sure the groove is wide enough to allow the flange to move up and down.
There should be a little friction, but not enough to restrict movement of the window. If you have existing flange weatherstrips, you can often replace damaged sections with new.
Begin your installation with the sill strip, which should fit as it comes from the package. To prepare the channel strips for installation, cut the top flange off at a downward angle to prevent snagging on the sash channel or sash cord. Like bronze V strips, the flanged channel strips extend past the top of the meeting rail.
Then cut the bottom to conform to the angle of the sill, and to fit around the stool the indoor sill. Note that the flange should be angle-cut high enough to saddle the bottom weatherstrip. Facing the window, install the left-hand piece of stripping using only three to five brads—one near the sill, one about midway up and one near the top. Again, avoid nailing into the sash-weight door.
Next temporarily insert the sash, making sure the groove and flange mesh at the left and the sill. Then check to see that the window moves up down appropriately. When you angle the bottoms of side flange weatherstrips to match the sill slope, you must also adapt the flange so it straddles the flange of the bottom strip, and probably trim where it meets the stool.
Remove the sash and prepare the right-hand weatherstrip in the same way. Insert the sash cord into the knot hole in the stile and install the left side of the sash into the left-side weatherstrip. Then insert sash cord in the right side, and weatherstrip into the groove of the right sash. Using a thin blade putty knife, gently push the sash and strip into the sash channel. Once the sash is seated, pull or push the right-hand weatherstrip down until it saddles over the sill strip. It is important to thoughtfully locate the brads on this piece so that you can remove the sash in the future by reversing the process.
Insert the bottom brad near the sill. Insert the upper brad at the inside edge of the sash and weatherstrip edge so that it can be removed if necessary. Before installing the stops, make sure the windows glide up and down. Storm windows should not form an airtight seal but, instead, incorporate weep holes or be raised on lead shims to let moisture escape.
Energy studies conducted by the federal government and many universities indicate that the combination of an adjusted prime sash and good storm sash is as efficient as most replacement windows. The best storms—thermally and aesthetically —are wood-framed but, alas, these have worn out their welcome with all but a few die-hard preservationists.
Make sure the tacks are flush against the surface of the v-strip to avoid scraping the sash against the tacks. Home Depot recommends spreading out the open ends of metal v-strips with a putty knife to create a tight weatherproofing seal with the sash.
Vinyl v-strips automatically flare out at the ends. Clean the underside of the sash with a damp cloth and allow it to dry. Attach self-adhesive vinyl foam to the corners of the underside of the window.
According to Home Depot, the window surface must be at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit for self-adhesive foam strips to stick. There's no need to apply foam strips to the entire underside of the sash, the corners will hold the frame in place. Determine whether your old windows are single or double hung.
If the window is double hung, lift the bottom sash to the top and lower the upper sash 2 inches.
0コメント